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Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, by Dana Thomas
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The New York Times–bestselling author of Deluxe chronicles the making and unmaking of two of the greatest fashion designers of our time
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In the mid-1990s, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen�exploded onto a fashion scene that was in an artistic and economic rut. Their daring visions shook the establishment out of its bourgeois, minimalist�stupor with vibrant, sexy designs and theatrical�runway shows. By the end of the decade, each had been hired to run one of couture’s most storied houses, Galliano at Dior and McQueen at Givenchy. They were icons of a new generation of rock-star designers who headlined the transformation of luxury fashion from a small clutch of family-owned businesses into a global, multibillion-dollar corporate industry. But the pace was unsustainable. In 2010, McQueen took his own life. A year later, Galliano was fired in the wake of an alcohol-fueled, anti-Semitic diatribe.
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In her groundbreaking work�Gods and Kings,�acclaimed fashion journalist Dana Thomas tells the true�story of two unforgettable artists. In so doing, she pulls back the curtain on the revolution that has remade high fashion over the last two decades—and the price it demanded from the very ones who saved it.
- Sales Rank: #125538 in Books
- Published on: 2016-01-26
- Released on: 2016-01-26
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.40" h x 1.00" w x 5.50" l, 1.00 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 432 pages
Amazon.com Review
An Amazon Best Book of the Month for February 2015: Gods and Kings is by no means the first book written about Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and the fashion industry at a pivotal moment, but author Dana Thomas puts an original spin on the story of two icons of cutting-edge couture. Both rose from humble beginnings to worldwide acclaim, and Thomas gives readers a front row seat to each man’s dramatic rise and tragic undoing. McQueen and Galliano were visionaries and revolutionaries but ultimately their greatest passion also exacted the highest price--McQueen’s suicide in 2010 and Galliano’s alcohol abuse that cost him his career and reputation which he is still fighting to regain. High drama, high fashion, high stakes, and high tragedy-- Gods and Kings is a compulsive read. --Seira Wilson
Review
Advance Praise for Dana Thomas's�Gods and Kings
Jon Meacham, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Thomas Jefferson and American Lion:�
“Dana Thomas has written a real-life saga that is as engaging and compelling as a work of great fiction. By taking us inside the fascinating world of fashion, she gives us a startling tale of ambition, creativity, fame, and ultimately tragedy. This is a terrific book.”
Michael Gross, author of Model and House of Outrageous Fortune:�
“Comprehensive, detailed, coldly accurate yet extraordinarily sympathetic, Dana Thomas’s Gods and Kings is a fascinating double biography of two dressmakers of genius. But it's also a riveting, definitive history of the three decades in which fashion devolved from a coddling cottage business to a cutthroat industry quite capable of killing its young. As commerce triumphs over art, you can only cringe, but you also have to admire Thomas's exhaustive account of what fashion folk would no doubt refer to as a moment that will never, and can never, be repeated.”
Teri Agins, author of Hijacking the Runway and The End of Fashion:�
“John Galliano and Alexander McQueen raised the bar creatively and theatrically with their high-impact fashion shows. In Gods and Kings, Paris based fashion writer Dana Thomas digs deep with the zeal of a historian, to chronicle the parallel dramas of the British fashion wunderkinds, whose careers ended tragically, way too soon.”
Richard Johnson, columnist,�The New York Post
"McQueen and Galliano were two peas in a perverse pod who revolutionized fashion. No one but Dana Thomas could have explained with such insight how their fantasies became ours and directed our dreams."
About the Author
Dana Thomas began her career writing for the “Style” section of the Washington Post and served for fifteen years as the European cultural and fashion correspondent for Newsweek in Paris. She is a contributing editor for T: The New York Times Style Magazine and has written for the New Yorker, the Wall Street Journal, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and the Financial Times. She lives in Paris.
Most helpful customer reviews
25 of 25 people found the following review helpful.
An absorbing read that will enhance your experience with fashion and break your heart
By D. Matlack
This is not a book to be breezed thru in an afternoon or two. In fact, I spent a good two and a half weeks with it, as I kept having to put it down and hit my computer to look up who people where and spent hours on youtube watching Galliano and McQueen shows, which thank Heaven nearly all the shows described in such wonderful detail in the book are archived there.
Dana Thomas does the customary dedication to her folks and gives a gracious thanks to all who helped her with resources and interviews, but she has not turned out a dry report on how fashion has become big business with no patience for artists, but a true and dedicated labor of love. She writes so that we know who these men are, what inspired them, who they liked, who they hated, what they drank, ate and ultimately what they put up their noses. And they are presented, truthfully yet raw and with respect. She presents Galliano and McQueen, so well that I found myself developing full on opinions and even taking sides. Halfway thru the book I found myself loving one collection over another even before I logged on to see it just because I was either intrigued or moved by the details that developed them. Being a child of the 80's I reflected fondly on the New Romanticism of Gallianos work and the dreamy fantasy in his illustrations (Had to look those up too.) and then I was won over by the proud, no-shame working-class attitude of McQueen and his remarkable structure of his Goth/Rock aesthetics. Her anecdotes, trivia and behind the scenes details are colorful and engaging.
And she writes also of the history of fashion design and their famous houses: Givenchy, Dior, Yve Saint Laurent, Channel, Louis Vuitton, etc. French fashion houses that have been around for decades and are institutes unto themselves. Of course this story begins with their take over amongst other luxury goods (moet hennesy, etc.) by businessman and real estate "acquirer" Bernard Arnault, who buys up every fashion house he can get his hands on, offends and then runs off any surviving family members and then re-assigns new up and coming designers to the established houses under the guise of modernizing them. But really it is a rape of sorts becoming nothing short of a draconian deal with the devil in the name of big business and big money.
Ironic that what should be the beginning of great things for both Galliano and McQueen was, in many ways their demise. All fashion designers, unless independently wealthy (HAH!) must find sponsors to finance their vision. And from the very beginning Arnault is not the rescuing prince on a white horse as he might initially appear to be. For starters he is less interested in establishing a new design house under a new designer and more interested in re-enforcing an established design house like Givenchy and Dior. The two respective labels McQueen and Galliano where recruited to save. The development of their own labels was merely a carrot dangled in front of their noses, and even then they were expected to sign over the copyrights to their own names to receive financing. So yes, integrity is immediately on the line.
The new business plan for Fashion is a brutal read, I found myself really cheering on Tom Ford and Domenico de Sole when they were able to subvert Arnault's sneaky take over attempt of Gucci. Arnault's big move was to quietly buy up stock options until he had at least a third share of a company then he would want to appoint his own board members, etc until finally the whole pie was his. Ford and de Sole not only saw the writing on the wall, but had quite a bit of business savvy of their own and immediately turned Gucci into an employee owned operation thus watering down Arnault's shares to 22% and voiding all attempts of getting on the board since he was not an employee. Beautiful.
With Galliano and McQueen things did not go so swimmingly. They pumped new life into their respective charges, but at a high cost. Galliano, despite all the advice he had ever gotten went ahead and sold all share to his Name Brand to Arnault for an unlimited blank check. It is pretty obvious from his behavior that he saw in Arnault and LVMH the ultimate sugar daddy and could be as naughty as he wanted believing himself to be the ultimate precocious yet charming spoilt child. McQueen was much more savvy in that his own brand was truly his dream and he held on to it at all costs. This of course meant that he had to pull everything he did for both Givnchy and McQueen on a shoestring budget in comparison and a fair share of disdain from Arnault.
I found myself, so utterly involved in the lives of these men I was wringing my hands over Galliano's thoughtless recklessness while my heart soared when McQueen stuck it to Arnault by going behind his back to wheel and deal with Ford and de Sole to free himself from Givenchy and establish McQueen as a solid house on its own. But of course, there is the end. With Galliano his fall was not only predictable by miles and could have been preventable it is still humbling. But with McQueen to see how hard he fought, how greatly he succeeded only to be taken down by the black dog of depression. Well, I can't help but grieve. I found myself crying for Mcqueen and concerned for Galliano's future well-being.
Because in the end, in the world of big business it is not what they created that counted but what and how often they produced.
My one complaint for this book: MORE PICTURES!!! of course I realize that for the book to have the photos that would really do it justice would push it from a 400 page book to roughly a 1000 page book, but it would have save me multiple trips online. But as for the experince, I really enjoyed this book in a way I have not in a long time.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Not Just For Fashion Followers
By Quirky Girl
Though I'm not a slave to fashion (unless I find a designer at a Thrift Shop!) - I love stories about people who rise to fame simply for following their passion - and the road blocks they encounter along the way.
To be honest, I really didn't even know who Galliano was...and McQueen, vaguely.
However, author Thomas writes such a great (very long though) book that I felt I was immersed in a movie. So much drama. I don't think you need to know who these fashion characters are to enjoy this book.
It's a fascinating trip, made more so by the fact these are icons.
After that, if you want an "uplifting" book about the fashion world, read I'll Drink To That by Eighty-six-year-old Betty Halbreich - that book was my introduction into the behind the scenes life of fashion and now I enjoy reading books about the people in the industry.
11 of 13 people found the following review helpful.
Very well written, engaging book - even if you're not a fashionista. Brava!
By Get What We Give
I must confess, I'm really not much of a fashionista, but I am interested in people who are self made successes (as well as those who self-destruct). It is on this basis that I was interested in this book.
First of all, the author: Dana Thomas. I don't know that I've ever read anything by her before, but if something else of hers strikes my fancy, you better believe I'll read it, because her writing style is very engaging and involving. She starts the book off by hitting us with the two tragedies that (in all likelihood) are the basis for her writing the book about these two kings of the European fashion world. From there she regales us with first hand and second hand accounts of these two designers' rise and fall and rise and implosion.
Gods and Kings is covered up in "names" - I don't know, nor do I care to know who most of them are. I find that lot to be a bore and very self involved as well as egotistical. However, Ms. Thomas does do a fine job of parsing the individuals out so that you can keep track of who's who. That is a feat unto itself. Furthermore, she was able to engage me in the world of Parisian and New York fashion which typically leaves me cold. Oh, I know it's high paced and high stakes - and frankly until I'd read this book I didn't realize HOW high paced and how high the stakes are (even though I have seen The Devil Wears Prada).
Alexander McQueen and John Galliano are young designers from desperately common, poor backgrounds. They don't know each other at first, but they come to rise to the height of the fashion world very quickly by their radical designs. These two British boys quickly go on to head two of the biggest Paris fashion houses, which causes quite a rift in the industry. They are pressured to deliver over and over more and more designs within unimaginably short timeframes.
McQueen turns to drugs and drink, while Galliano becomes a raging alcoholic. Both are gay, but by all accounts really didn't have time for their own sex lives (much like straight corporate mogels).
I won't give away the juicy parts of the book, but suffice it to say there are many.
What I found profoundly interesting, is that the high stakes in the fashion industry are every bit as cut throat as anything going on Wall Street.
While I would certainly, at one point, have enjoyed having that fame and fortune, I would never have wanted it at the expense it took on these men (or for that matter that it takes on the corporate guys either).
Very well written, engaging book - even if you're not a fashionista. Brava!
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